Celebrating in Papua New Guinea

From arrows to spears to axes, there might be hundreds of Stone Age tribesmen all around you brandishing their weapons in your direction while howling their war chants at the exact same time while smeared in pig grease and soot. It might seem rather disturbing. What you are seeing is the annual Highlands Show of Papua New Guinea.

Considering the location of Papua New Guinea, it is in between and the equator, the country consists of small islands belonging to the Bismarck Archipelago as well as the eastern part of the large island that it shares with Indonesia. In 1975 was when this country achieved independence and nationhood but before this happened, separately managed Papua and New Guinea under various United Nations trust arrangements. There are lots of places in this country where the western way of life is unknown.

The rugged Highlands were first explored in the 1930s by white men, traveling on foot. Nowadays, there is still much fascination with the white man where the centers of attention at the Highlands Show are the painted warriors and a tourist with a camera. As they are held alternately in the towns of Goroka and Mount Hagen, this two day show is able to attract 60,000 viewers who are mostly Papua New Guineans. Even if it involves weeks of walking, some people do so from places like Telefomin, Wapenamanda, and Ukarumpa to be able to participate in the festivities.

In this case, shown are the usual agricultural and crafts exhibits plus local skills which include fire making and house building. You can also witness light entertainment in this show. As they participate barefoot with weapons in hand, the competitors try their luck in event like bicycle races, chasing after a greased pig, and racing up a greased pole where cigarettes and beer hang up top. During the sing sing competition, the tribes are able to show tourists and locals their treasured ceremonial attire and this is the climax of the weekend.

Under the hot sun, people dance and chant accompanied by the deep hollow beat of the kundu drum where pace changes are occasionally done to simulate a battle or to stage a legend from tribal history. For the Highlands sing, a feast for the eyes is the kaleidoscope of color and costume. You can say that the dancers are well embellished. Either their faces are colored in red and blue ochre or their bodies are covered with the darkest soot trimmed with everything from leaves to feathers to beads and even store bought crepe paper. Used by those with pierced septums are not the usual pig's tusk or other bone but ball point pens and even pieces of an automobile engine and safety pins make for great earrings.

Unwrapped and exhibited during this time are the village heirlooms. Children wear their headpieces made from the fur of the spotted cuscus, a small marsupial, with pride. Because seashells were once a form of currency, people still give them much value. There are the lucky ones who are able to see the tall swaying plumes of the peacock like Raggiana Bird of Paradise, the national symbol, or that of the cassowary.

You can be in the midst of the eerie Asaro mudmen too. Apart from being coated in white mud, they use sun baked clay and straw to make grotesque headgear. What they do is slap leaves off their thighs as they do a swaying dance. There is a legend that mentions how a tribe after being pursued by their enemies retreated into the Asaro River.

Retreating were their enemies when they emerged looking like ghouls all covered in the white clay. In commemoration of this victory, the Asaro mudmen continue covering themselves in the same river mud. Those who gave the best presentations and were best in their costumes were awarded with prizes in cash and cattle as well after all the sing sings. When the sun starts sinking, the people start trekking downhill to go home.

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